Abercrombie's Boring Panty Raid: The Ennui of Nipples PDF E-mail
Patrick T. Davis   
Tuesday, 11 March 2008
 
It's true that there's nothing new under the sun. Also true that sex sells. Oh, true, too, that outrage gets news coverage. And true, so it seems, that Abercrombie & Fitch have become hopelessy lost in marketing cliches with the beautiful boredom of their new Gilly Hicks underwear brand.

 

The brand launches with nothing more than a soft-core porno and some intentionally protest-generating posters. The publicity machine is running; the panty raid is sure to ensue.

 

The problem here isn't the rehashed nudie ads (from 1950's pin-ups to "The Blue Lagoon" to Paris's full-frontal Britney to too many MySpace postings, we've seen it all). It isn't the rehashed arguments of "but it's a tasteful representation of where our culture is today." Thanks, but we have all seen Bruce Weber campaigns ad nauseum. It isn't even the child porn potential, discussion about which we will leave to those duplicitous spokescreatures honed by American Apparel and Calvin Klein, who are surely now on the line, begging to go "on background" so they can have both knee-deep and not-me status all at once. Crisis control that fans the flames?

 

Nope. The problem is how out of touch the brand is at a strategic level. As populations become ever more interested in authentic, transparent and socially driven brands, Abercrombie launches a thong from stage to audience, with all the "with-it cool" of Tom Jones.

 

There is no Gilly Hicks (though we appreciate the giggly/chicks and wiggly/dicks puns). There is no store in Sydney, though this is the backstory of the brand. This would be hot news 15 or 20 years ago -- sly marketers, clever creatives, pass me that Haagen Dazs! -- but today? Gilly Hicks is simply very old marketing. It's outdated upon birth. It's brand as window dressing. Did I mention there is an online movie? And nubile nudes? Yawn.

 

Where's the malleable identity? The narrative strategy? The playful participation? These are panties we're talking about, and chiseled buttocks, too. Shouldn't there be some sense of fun and youth? In short, why not create and launch a modern, relevant, enjoyable, conversant, engaged brand? The ennui of nipples is just so sad, really.

 

The target markets will see through this in less time than it takes that movie to play. These kids -- and yes, that is likely the porno-pusher market here -- will snicker, but not in a titillated way. They will see the old men behind the camera, trying to be naughty and sexy (and what kid doesn't want to see Dad stretch out the Speedo?). The voyeuristic quality of the movie is the most remarkable feature; Girls Gone Wild videos are more involved in their subject. Detachment doesn't build brand equity.

 

Mothers with less fortunate underwear by necessity will call for posters to be burned (not out of jealousy, we must insist), and the news media will have a "scandal" to cover. This might matter if traditional media were worth a thing to the target. It's not. Anyone at Abercrombie studied news viewership and other media consumption trends this decade?

 

This too adds to the uncomfortably boring, out-of-sync quality of the brand. We've been through Madonna, and those first Abercrombie catalogs. It's not gotten more interesting a quarter-century on. Could we have a hint more conversation and a nudge less pouting, please? You're starting to seem, well, silly. Like little kids who pull off their pants and run through the dinner party. It's OK at a certain age, then we grow out of it.

 

Abercrombie: Please, find something new to do. Your markets don't care, and Gilly Hicks confirms why. Too bad you took this path -- it clouds the near brilliance of changing the game for Victoria's Secret. But battling an old, tired brand with the same old, tired tricks just won't do it.

 

 

 

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Comments (17)Add Comment
whatya need is
written by BobDoleSez, March 11, 2008 08:29 AM
BobDoleSez: whatya need here is some ass-smackin.
BobDoleSez: 'Lizabeth, get to the panty shop. I'm takin a pill.
song
written by alex r., March 11, 2008 09:19 AM
Anybody know what that song in the movie is? I like it, but it sure does add to the detached and bored quality of it all.
They're called boobs, Ed.
written by Erin, March 11, 2008 09:22 AM
Oh, for God's sake. This plays like an old Calvin Klein ad. Only, ooooh, with nipples and asses. When will this country stop giggling like a tumescent middle schooler at the sight of a damn boob or butt crack? It's not edgy. It's a body part. Move on. No wonder the Europeans mock us to mercilessly. This campaign is totally lame and screams "desperation" for A&F. And someone needs to give that woman a sammich.
at least...
written by Tad Pole, March 11, 2008 09:24 AM
..the boobs are real. The only authentic thing in this entire crapfest.
pretty
written by farting jim, March 11, 2008 09:27 AM
those are some pretty boobies. but i have to agree as a marketer. being pretty isn't enough anymore. need a thought in the head, too to reach today's yutes.
pop goes the ennui-sel
written by Paulie, March 11, 2008 10:27 AM
If only I had a dime for every time I stood naked on the beach helping my semi-nude girlfriend hang her lingerie on a clothes line. Millions, I tell you. Millions.
caliente
written by josemocha, March 11, 2008 10:30 AM
that lady's taco makes my burrito get muy hot.
seriously, this is theater of the abs-urd.
not that bad
written by Marx, March 11, 2008 12:50 PM
I don't think it's as bad as the other commenters do. It's not uncomfortably or inappropriately sexual. It's soft and romantic. Not porn.
Huh Huh
written by Butt-Head, March 11, 2008 04:27 PM
This guy said "ennui" in his headline. Huh huh.
victoria's
written by madman, March 11, 2008 10:58 PM
I don't agree with the opinion in the post; find the spot gorgeous and not boring. Totally agree, though, with the last point. The interesting thing is that Victoria's Secret has been one-upped by Gilly Hicks. That will be interesting to watch, especially if Gisele ends up in just panties and water.
abercrombie does not support healthy childhood
written by national physicians, March 12, 2008 08:15 AM
Please read. This is important.
http://www.cnn.com/2008/US/03/12/abercrombie.hospital.ap/index.html
Whoa.
written by Lainie, March 12, 2008 09:53 AM
I just read the article about the hospital. Must everything we do be sponsored by a company? The idea of a company, any company, especially one that sexualizes teens way too early, slapping its name on something dedicated to keepign kids healthy just makes me sick.
agree
written by marketing mom, March 12, 2008 02:20 PM
Lainie, I agree. I am in this business and often have a hard time with some of the things we do in pursuit of the all-mighty dollar. I like marketing because it is creative, and most companies know where the boundaries are. Abercrombie does not, and it really concerns me that they would even make such an attempt. Let's hope the doctors win this round. If they want to clean up their image, how about they start by promoting some healthy, respectful and age-appropriate marketing programs?
Worked for me...
written by horny14-year-old, March 12, 2008 02:37 PM
Unethical and cliched for sure, but I might watch it a few times underneath the radar of my mom's parental filters and forward it to my friends for them to use...I mean watch.

By the way, would somebody get that girl a cheese burger? I'm just saying...
...
written by Boller, March 31, 2008 04:21 PM
Are you seriously bashing a company for donating money to a children's hospital? I'm sure all the children who are going to be treated for emergency situations are going to be in an uproar that they were treated in a hospital department named after a company (which has an extremely popular children's brand). You people are so thick, and Davis, why are you judging the success of one brand by a few (if that) marketing techniques? No, I guess the actual product itsself has nothing to do with it. Yea, you really know teens.
yes
written by Patrick, March 31, 2008 09:53 PM
Thanks for the read and comment, but I honestly have no idea what you are saying. Cigarette companies give millions to charity in attempts to earn absolution for glamorous yet unhealthy products and marketing. Should we always accept this gestures instead of demanding genuine change? As for quality - I'm not sure that argument holds up when one adds price to the equation and asks about AF *value* to consumers. Your "teens" market confirmation I'll take as a neat exclamation point on my entire argument. ..it's indefensible and comes with mighty responsibilities to market like this. Donations aren't enough.
You people?
written by CK, April 01, 2008 10:02 AM
Boller, if you were to remove the few (if that) marketing techniques, what is it that makes AF different than other designer casual teen clothing brands, like American Eagle? What makes it distinct? The actual product itself is not much different. The quality is comparable. Their detached sexuality is a key part of the brand's success. The hospital is a bribe. You're right that the kids treated there won't care. But would that argument inoculate the KKK from opening a new cardiac wing at the local Children's Hospital? Perhaps cigarettes and hate groups are extreme examples, but selling to teens using soft core porn disguised as "art" is hardly noble.



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