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It's true that there's nothing new under the sun. Also true that sex sells. Oh, true, too, that outrage gets news coverage. And true, so it seems, that Abercrombie & Fitch have become hopelessy lost in marketing cliches with the beautiful boredom of their new Gilly Hicks underwear brand.
The brand launches with nothing more than a soft-core
porno and some intentionally protest-generating posters. The publicity machine is running; the panty
raid is sure to ensue.
The problem here isn't the rehashed nudie ads (from
1950's pin-ups to "The Blue Lagoon" to Paris's full-frontal Britney to too many MySpace postings,
we've seen it all). It isn't the
rehashed arguments of "but it's a tasteful representation of where our
culture is today." Thanks, but we have all seen Bruce Weber campaigns ad
nauseum. It isn't even the child porn
potential, discussion about which we will leave to those duplicitous
spokescreatures honed by American Apparel and Calvin Klein, who are surely now on
the line, begging to go "on background" so they can have both knee-deep and not-me status all at once. Crisis control that fans the
flames?
Nope. The problem is how out of touch the brand is at a
strategic level. As populations become
ever more interested in authentic, transparent and socially driven brands,
Abercrombie launches a thong from stage to audience, with all the "with-it
cool" of Tom Jones.
There is no Gilly Hicks (though we appreciate the
giggly/chicks and wiggly/dicks puns).
There is no store in Sydney, though this is the backstory of the
brand. This would be hot news 15 or 20
years ago -- sly marketers, clever creatives, pass me that Haagen Dazs! -- but
today? Gilly Hicks is simply very old
marketing. It's outdated upon birth.
It's brand as window dressing. Did I mention there is an online movie?
And nubile nudes? Yawn.
Where's the malleable identity? The narrative strategy? The playful participation? These are panties we're talking about, and chiseled buttocks, too. Shouldn't there be some sense of fun and youth? In short, why not create and launch a modern,
relevant, enjoyable, conversant, engaged brand? The ennui of nipples is just so sad, really.
The target markets will see through this in less time
than it takes that movie to play. These
kids -- and yes, that is likely the porno-pusher market here -- will snicker,
but not in a titillated way. They will
see the old men behind the camera, trying to be naughty and sexy (and what kid
doesn't want to see Dad stretch out the Speedo?). The voyeuristic quality of
the movie is the most remarkable feature; Girls Gone Wild videos are more
involved in their subject. Detachment doesn't build brand equity.
Mothers with less fortunate underwear by necessity will
call for posters to be burned (not out of jealousy, we must insist), and the news
media will have a "scandal" to cover.
This might matter if traditional media were worth a thing to the
target. It's not. Anyone at Abercrombie studied news viewership and other media consumption trends this decade?
This too adds to the uncomfortably boring,
out-of-sync quality of the brand. We've
been through Madonna, and those first Abercrombie catalogs. It's not gotten
more interesting a quarter-century on. Could we have a hint more conversation and a nudge less pouting, please? You're starting to seem, well, silly. Like little kids who pull off their pants and run through the dinner party. It's OK at a certain age, then we grow out of it.
Abercrombie: Please, find something new to do. Your markets don't care, and Gilly Hicks
confirms why. Too bad you took this path
-- it clouds the near brilliance of changing the game for Victoria's
Secret. But battling an old, tired brand
with the same old, tired tricks just won't do it.
**to read more articles by this author, click on the name under the headline**
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BobDoleSez: 'Lizabeth, get to the panty shop. I'm takin a pill.