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Horacio
Silva, the New York Times
critical shopper,
recently detailed the rough handling he suffered amidst the unbearable
preciousness of Tom Ford’s
new menswear boutique on Madison Avenue.
Certainly it make us cringe to hear of bad service, absurd
haughtiness, likely racism and the high-end faux pas, as Silva notes, of
confusing exclusionary with
exclusive. If Mr. Ford means to reinvent luxury, he seems on his way to doing
it, tying it to outdated notions or wealth and considering his clientele
clichés from television.
The real failure here, though, is that fussypants Ford
thinks that building a brand is all about image. That’s
the most outdated notion of all that is tripping him up. Great brands are rich with story and meaning
to be sure, but those are just the means of making the brand
promise. The real deal is in the details
Ford claims to love so much; all great brands are operational masterworks. FedEx may move me from midnight blue to daylight
orange (with niftily embedded forward-facing arrow) in their logo. And the company may inspire my worry to flee
with promises of overnight delivery. But
the folks in flight management, logistics, weather forecasting, labor relations
and traffic routing are the ones who really make me smile.
Not so, apparently, at Chez Ford. If he means to reinvent luxury he should
start with the end in mind. The ultimate
luxury is effortless comfort and worry-free
access to anything one wants, when one wants it. His store seems engineered to create effort,
discomfort, worry and barriers to satisfaction. That’s
quite a brand, intended or not, and not even one of Tom’s handmade beaver top
hats can make such rudeness seem elegant.
In fact, what Ford is offering seems more costume than
couture, more stage set than sartorial salon.
It’s all an act
(appropriate enough, one might be tempted to say, for a boy from Texas who became head of
Gucci). Horacio Silva notes as much: his
second visit, when all the boutique’s
minions knew he was someone important, went swell.
If Ford has launched with operationalized disingenuousness, then he
has a bigger problem with Brand Tom Ford than he imagines. Being fake is the unforgivable sin in luxury
marketing. What’s next from Tom Ford? Why not just hock synthetic cashmere, a
knock-off Patek Philippe and a phony Gucci bag on Canal Street?
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